Miss the early warning signs and you could wind up needing costly repairs, or be stuck by the side of the road awaiting a tow truck.

Modern automobiles and trucks are an incredibly complex mix of mechanisms and electronics. To best protect your vehicle’s value and to minimize the chance of costly repairs, you need to know how to interpret its nonverbal clues.

Here are 10 things your car can tell you that you should never ignore:

1. Indicators: Gauges that read out of the recommended range and illuminated warning lights are a sure sign of trouble. A red oil, temperature or brake light means stop driving now, while a yellow "check engine" or ABS light indicates a problem that needs to be dealt with soon.

A flashing "check engine" light indicates an engine misfire is occurring, which must be fixed right away. A repetitive misfire is usually caused by an ignition system fault and can quickly kill the catalytic converter. Emissions also will soar beyond belief.

2. Noises: Engine pinging is caused by abnormal combustion, and it can lead to serious damage if it happens frequently. Chassis/body rattles are often caused by loose or misaligned parts.

In general, the deeper the sound, the more serious the cause. Clunking from the suspension, steering or driveline should be looked into right away, as a critical part may be close to failure or separation. A repetitive knocking noise heard while sharply turning is typically caused by a worn or loose constant velocity (axle) joint.

A deeper grinding sound from the brakes says you’ve worn all the way through the pad’s friction material and you’re destroying the brake rotors. A repetitive nail-on-blackboard squeal is likely to be the disc pad wear-sensors telling you they’re getting thin.

Glazed accessory belts can make a variety of whooshing or chirping noises, and a loose belt will often squeal when heavily loaded. Engine knocking usually indicates bearing problems.

3. Leaks: The color of the puddle can help identify its source. Watery green or orange fluid is likely to be engine coolant and should be taken seriously. Coolant loss can lead to overheating.

Brown or darker oil can drip from the engine, older-generation manual transmissions, the rear differential or the power steering system. Leaking red fluid can come from an automatic or manual transmission, the 4x4 transfer case and, possibly, the power steering or radiator. Slight seepage can be acceptable on certain components, but truly wet or dripping parts should be repaired.

Grease slung from faulty front-wheel-drive axle boots is a warning that CV joint failure is on the horizon unless action is taken soon. Clear water on the ground is condensation from the A/C system drain, and is normal.

A windshield that fogs up badly or wetness on the passenger-side carpet usually indicates leakage from the heater core. You will want to fix this right away, before it makes a bigger mess.

4. Fluid colors: Burned or discolored fluids are shouting to be changed. Milky engine oil (coolant and oil mixed) can result from an internal gasket failure or component crack and should be repaired immediately. Automatic transmission fluid also can become contaminated (milky), should the radiator/ transmission cooler develop a leak.

5. Odors: First, be sure the odor is coming from your vehicle, rather than from another source around it.

A rotten egg smell emanating from the catalytic converter can be caused by an excessively rich air-fuel ratio or misfire.

A burning odor is often caused by an oil leak coming into contact with the exhaust system. Common sources are valve cover gaskets and rear/main crankshaft seals.

A raw gasoline odor is very serious business. If a visible (liquid) gasoline leak is noticed, the car should be towed — not driven — to the repair shop. A dirty-sock odor in the ventilation system is caused by fungus buildup in the under-dash A/C evaporator. Professional treatment works best, though home remedies can bring temporary relief.

6. Slipping and sliding: Transmission hesitation or slipping might be caused by incorrect fluid level and should be corrected right away to avoid internal damage. Engine hesitation, reduced mileage or power loss can have a multitude of causes and may lead to increased engine wear and catalyst damage. A continual (thumping) misfire is the worst scenario.

7. Shake, rattle and roll: Shimmying or shaking is usually caused by poor tire/wheel balance, while pulling can be the result of low or badly worn tires or incorrect wheel alignment. Wandering might occur because of loose or worn front suspension or steering parts, while heaving and bouncing indicates worn shocks/struts.

8. Tire talk: Abnormal tire wear can occur because of improper inflation or incorrect wheel alignment. Excessive wear at the center of the tread says overinflation, while undue wear at both outer edges is caused by underinflation. Wear at one side or feathering might be caused by incorrect wheel camber or toe (alignment) issues.

9. Dim lights, poor starting: These are signs of a weak battery or a possible charging-system fault. Check first for corroded battery terminals or a loose or slipping alternator belt. Batteries usually last for three to four years in hot climate, and longer where the weather is cool. Be sure the battery is securely mounted and properly charged.

10. Odometer: This is your primary maintenance reminder. In most cases, minor service should be performed every 7,500 miles, and major service every 30,000. Regular oil changes are your first line of defense against engine wear.

Don’t forget about transmission, cooling system and brake fluid service when specified. A broken timing belt can wreak serious havoc on valves and pistons, so pay special attention to its replacement interval.

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